AMC 360 rebuild/upgrade opinions wanted

[army89wagoneer]

Here's my situation, have a 1989 Grand Wagoneer, stock everything, I'm finally going to have some time to rip the motor out strip everything down, media blast it repaint it AMC Blue and make some upgrades.......

So here's the question what should I do to make it a decent offroad vehicle but still get the gas mileage to drive it to the trails and not have to tow it behind my yukon. It currently has the BJs 6inch lift 33x12.5x15 wheels and switching to 3.73 for the gears.

I've heard recommendations to go with the 4 barrel carb and others for the EFI, would prefer to go with the carb because its cheaper and I want to keep it closer to stock than a fuel injection option.

Thanks for the help all comments and appreciated.

[73shovelhead]

Do you have to run smog equipment? If you do, after you pass it take all the smog equipment off, air injection, remove pollution pump belt, and remove as many vacuum lines as possible. I did this on my CJ-7 with a 304, and the performance was like night and day. The only vacuum line that I have on it is the one to the Distributor. As for performance parts, probably an after market intake and carb and low end power curved cams would probably do the trick.

[Brent]

The HEI is a great upgrade for runability and fuel mileage... and power.

[chief1ton]

If your going to rebuild the motor, have the rotating assembly ( crank rods pistons ) balanced, add a windage tray, (keeps the oil from splashing up on the crank and rods) both will increase mileage and power. swap out the manual fan for the electric

[Stuka]

If you are allowed to have a 4v carb, then go with a 670 truck avenger. If not, your stock carb works great offroad. EFI is the ultimate, but $$$.

Now, as for some upgrades. If you are rebuilding the engine, go with a good RV cam (the summit k8600 is popular). Since you have a post 78, go with a TFI ignition upgrade over the HEI. Its far cheaper, and gets the same results. A better flowing exhaust will help (a good single 2.5-3"). If you go with a carb, put on an edelbrock performer intake (not the rpm or torquer, just the plane performer).

As for getting good enough milage not to tow it. If you towed it with your yukon, the yukon would get about 9-10mpg most likely. Making it cheaper to drive the jeep, even if it only get 13-14hwy. And 14 hwy is very attainable if driven right with the right mods (without EFI).

[Shelby]

I have an 88 GW. I put in a rebuilt 360, Edelbrock Performer intake manifold, Edelbrock 650cfm carb, blaster coil, MSD 8.6mm plug wires, a Flow Kooler water pump, K&N air cleaner, Pro Cooler Electric fan, Edelbrock shorty Headers, and Flowmasters on mine. It has taken a few years, but the difference is night and day. I can posi-smoke 35's.

[army89wagoneer]

I don't have to pass an emission test in SC and the first thing we did was remove the pump that shoved air in through the headers and removed the pulley, A buddy mentioned removing and plugging the vacuum hoses that aren't needed so definately going to do that as well. Appreciate the tips especially when everyone mentioned specific brands and model numbers makes it easier for me to track down and decide on. Probably going to go with a 4 bar carb and new intake manifold from edelbrock. I'll make sure to post a picture on the customer's rides once the engine is rebuilt......Thanks for the help.

[army89wagoneer]

Cams, and electric fan

Question, with the RV cam you listed will it work with the stock pistons or will I have to change out some other parts.

Also with the pro cooler electric fan mentioned above, I looked for something by that name and couldn't find one, is that the brand.

So far I'm going to purchase the 3.73 gears, edlebrock intake and the 600 or 650 cfm 4 barrel carb, and of course some AMC blue paint for the engine.

[Stuka]

For the electric fan, most of the comercial ones dont move enough air. Most people use the fan out of a 1st gen 3.8L Taurus. It moves 2600cfm. BJ's offroad offers an electric fan, but I am not sure if it works on stock radiators.

If you go with the summit cam, buy the kit that comes with lifters as well. Pistons do not need to be changed for a cam. The cam only directly effects the valve train. If you do replace the cam, be sure to do the timing chain and gears while you are in there.

[army89wagoneer]

Cam shaft choice...more confusion

I checked out the summit k8600 cam shaft and it states that its for a 1970-78 jeep and optimum range is 1,500-4,500 rpm, I checked the summit racing site and put in 1989 grand wagoneer 5.9liter 360 and the shafts it recommends are 1,800-5,800 or 3,000-7,000rpm and everything inbetween, How do you know what rpm range and lifters you need???? is there a reason that the k8600 which was recommended was listed for 70's jeeps vs 80's jeeps.
Thanks for the help with all the engine questions just not very knowledgeable on the topic.

[Stuka]

You dont want one for 3000-7000, thats more of a racing camshaft, and will have a pretty lopy idle. And generally you wont ever want to take a 360 over 4500-5000rpm without some oiling mods anyway.

As for lifters, stock lifters work, but I believe they do offer a kit that has cam and lifters.

[jeepguy77]

if you balance the rotating assembly and change to a stronger valve spring you should be ok a correctly built 360 engine can redline at 7000 of course you dont ever want to go that high because the 2 bolt main caps will walk so i would only go to about 6500 the edelbrock performer rpm goes to 6500 and says all you need to do is change the valves springs but they probably assume the engine was balanced and blue printed correctly

[Shelby]

It was a Perma Cool fan, not a Flow Cooler. Here it is.

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

[Ryan]

For what 95% of FSJ owners use their rigs for, I'd stick with either the Summit K8600 or the Crane H-260-2 cam. Those will be in the 1,500 to 5,500 range, roughly, which is where you'll need most of your power. I'd recommend a double roller timing chain (Edelbrock has the best results so far with regards to the oiling chamfer issues). I'd go 0.030 and use some Speed Pro pistons. Having the entire rotating assembly balanced usually runs $200 or so, and helps with the longevity of the engine (although most folks do it for higher-horsepower applications). I'd recommend the Edelbrock heads, but I understand that might not be in the budget for everyone. I'd definitely go with an HEI (we have the Mallory and the ProForm units), Edelbrock Performer Intake and 600 cfm Performer Carb. Also, when you have the machine work done, I'd recommend having the honing done with AMC torque plates, and I'd also recommend the intake-valley oiling mod. Match those things with a good set of headers (Thorleys or Edelbrock Shorty's) + a 2.5" single system out the back will get you a ton of power right where you need it. I've built a few AMC's like that and have had great results. Also, use a matched set of cam & dizzy gears (speaking from experience)

[RookieRecurve]

From what I hear, the stock heads are very good flowing. Edelbrock ones are aluminum so they have a weight advantage and some cooling as well. I suspect a bit of porting and polishing would achieve great results at a better price. Anyone had luck with bumping up the compression a bit? The 8.25 that came from the factory is very mild!