--first-off; my apologies for linking to the other site but it seemed most efficient for getting the info here. TIA for your time & input here--
I'm looking into picking up this 360 I posted here as my first foray into engine building. I also just had a 400SBC fall in my lap so I am trying to get all my info ahead of time as to just how big a project this will be to get up & running as I do currently DD this truck.
The 258 in it supposedly came from a 77 CJ but previous owner wasn't 100%. It has a DUI in it already and runs pretty decent but the carter carb seems to be in need of at least a rebuild though most seem to recommend swapping to the MC2100. It also has exh. manifold leaks, & a few other minor things. To me, instead of spending almost $300 on a carb for this thing along with nickel-&-diming myself fixing the I6; I should just build the 360 and drop it in as long as the ancillary requirements of the swap don't skyrocket the price. As far as I can tell a master rebuild kit online goes for a little over $400, machine work with oiling mods could run another $250-$400. Then I need engine mounts ($100-$200) & fab/install thereof, exhaust modification ($100), distributor, carb, possibly valve covers & timing covers if they aren't included (they aren't in the pic). I'd likely do roller cam setup at the same time, and that's where I run out of info..
I know nothing about either the 360 or the 400 as to which would be better or why except more displacement=more fun though that frequently=more $$$ though it would seem that either option should run similar cost or at least be in the ballpark of each other. Please chime in as to which option would be best for in terms of parts pricing/availability & adaptability to this vehicle & running gear. Main use of the Gladiator will be going from home-shop-home & a little around town though I'll certainly do some grunting through mud & trails in this thing... doubtful I'll get into rock crawling though.
I assume I'll need at least an adapter ($450) to the stock 3spd trans suspected to be a T150 (may also be T89/T90 according to local jeep shop). If current driveline is incompatible with this engine then I'll need a whole new trans/Tcase setup though I don't know where to begin to determine what options may exist for this. If trans/Tcase location is affected by engine location then probably custom driveshafts will be needed as well.
Anyone with input on this is greatly appreciated. I'm a weird sort of gearhead in that I grew up without anyone to show me about cars and far too poor to be a hobbyist until I was an adult when I dove headlong into the turbo & AWD world of imports. I'm a pretty good troubleshooter, dang-decent with anything computerized/injected/ & boosted but never learned the basics of good old fashioned carbureted displacement and am hoping to address that with this new toy and the projects it has to offer.
Additionally; I've got a line on a F&R axle set from a '78 J20 with matching gear ratios, front disc brakes, & the more modern suspension mounting to allow lifting & modification. Should I go with these axles & maybe upgrade the internals or go with some other transplanted setup? I happen to have own a DIY auto repair shop so I've got access to lifts, pneumatics, and nearly any sort of tool you can imagine.. I've got more tools than the local Matco, Snap-On, or Mac guy has on their trucks LOL.. If you happen to be anywhere near Panama City, Fl look me up. My site is being re-done and sucks but I'm working on it.
I'm looking into picking up this 360 I posted here as my first foray into engine building. I also just had a 400SBC fall in my lap so I am trying to get all my info ahead of time as to just how big a project this will be to get up & running as I do currently DD this truck.
The 258 in it supposedly came from a 77 CJ but previous owner wasn't 100%. It has a DUI in it already and runs pretty decent but the carter carb seems to be in need of at least a rebuild though most seem to recommend swapping to the MC2100. It also has exh. manifold leaks, & a few other minor things. To me, instead of spending almost $300 on a carb for this thing along with nickel-&-diming myself fixing the I6; I should just build the 360 and drop it in as long as the ancillary requirements of the swap don't skyrocket the price. As far as I can tell a master rebuild kit online goes for a little over $400, machine work with oiling mods could run another $250-$400. Then I need engine mounts ($100-$200) & fab/install thereof, exhaust modification ($100), distributor, carb, possibly valve covers & timing covers if they aren't included (they aren't in the pic). I'd likely do roller cam setup at the same time, and that's where I run out of info..
I know nothing about either the 360 or the 400 as to which would be better or why except more displacement=more fun though that frequently=more $$$ though it would seem that either option should run similar cost or at least be in the ballpark of each other. Please chime in as to which option would be best for in terms of parts pricing/availability & adaptability to this vehicle & running gear. Main use of the Gladiator will be going from home-shop-home & a little around town though I'll certainly do some grunting through mud & trails in this thing... doubtful I'll get into rock crawling though.
I assume I'll need at least an adapter ($450) to the stock 3spd trans suspected to be a T150 (may also be T89/T90 according to local jeep shop). If current driveline is incompatible with this engine then I'll need a whole new trans/Tcase setup though I don't know where to begin to determine what options may exist for this. If trans/Tcase location is affected by engine location then probably custom driveshafts will be needed as well.
Anyone with input on this is greatly appreciated. I'm a weird sort of gearhead in that I grew up without anyone to show me about cars and far too poor to be a hobbyist until I was an adult when I dove headlong into the turbo & AWD world of imports. I'm a pretty good troubleshooter, dang-decent with anything computerized/injected/ & boosted but never learned the basics of good old fashioned carbureted displacement and am hoping to address that with this new toy and the projects it has to offer.
Additionally; I've got a line on a F&R axle set from a '78 J20 with matching gear ratios, front disc brakes, & the more modern suspension mounting to allow lifting & modification. Should I go with these axles & maybe upgrade the internals or go with some other transplanted setup? I happen to have own a DIY auto repair shop so I've got access to lifts, pneumatics, and nearly any sort of tool you can imagine.. I've got more tools than the local Matco, Snap-On, or Mac guy has on their trucks LOL.. If you happen to be anywhere near Panama City, Fl look me up. My site is being re-done and sucks but I'm working on it.
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