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  • #1

    360 cooling problems

    I have an 87 Grand Wagoneer. I rebuilt the AMC 360 4 years ago and always had cooling issues, i have put new heads on it, high flow water pump, several thermostats, temp sending units,new clutch fan. it has a 3 core radiator that i installed on the rebuild. new aluminum intake. put a working clutch fan on it off other jeep. I cant figure it out. please help!
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  • #2
    probably one of three things:

    1. running lean on the carb (only way to be positive is to test with an O2 sensor)
    2. clutch fan isn't really working too well, even though it was 'working' before
    3. radiator isn't able to cool the motor (what brand is it?)

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    • #3
      i checked the clutch fan. it isnt lose or anything. i believe the radiator is a 3 core version of the OEM replacement. i drove it again today, I have a 180 tstat in it and at idle it is running around 200, then it will rise up and stop at 220 or go up to the red line when i drive. th thing i dont understand is as hot as the temp gauge reads the radiator does not feel that hot, i just put a new temp sending unit on it yesterday. and with a highflow water pump should the flow throught the radiator be movin pretty good with the cap off and thermostat open?

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      • #4
        yep, you should see a decent flow with the t-stat open and the cap off. I wonder if you have a few air pockets in the system. You can buy those bleeder valves that go in-line in the heater hoses. Plumb the system, start the truck and get to operating temp with the heater on full high. then open the bleed caps and let out any air in the system.

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        • #5
          But doesn't the 360 like to run hot? I have a 190 stat in mine and it runs 220 all the time that is with a Bj's aluminum radiator, high flow pump, electric fan and hood vents. Oh and does it get hot in the cab.

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          • #6
            i like the breather idea. im goin to try flushing it out also. tailgunner, mine never used to run hot until my head cracked.

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            • #7
              This might seem like a foolish question, but are you sure it running that hot. your guage may not be right. the sending unit might not be compatible with the guage, the guage could just be bad. you can pick up a infrared thermometer pretty cheap, $30-$40. with it you will be able to check your block, manifolds, rad, all individually, pinpoint where it hottest. if it really is running hot. you should also be able to pinpoint when your tstat opens. watch your guage, when it opens your temp should drop slightly.

              My amc motors have never ran hot. i'm still running on a fact replaced rad. and a flexfan.

              I also have never seen a lean condition overheat the engine. it can raise the temp some, but only slightly. it can however send your manifolds into nuclear meltdown

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              • #8
                Originally posted by Tailgunner View Post
                But doesn't the 360 like to run hot? I have a 190 stat in mine and it runs 220 all the time that is with a Bj's aluminum radiator, high flow pump, electric fan and hood vents. Oh and does it get hot in the cab.
                No, they aren't known to run hot unless they are bored 0.040 over and not tuned right. The cooling issues (if indeed it is overheating) are usually due to running lean on the carb, timing off, wrong spark plugs, air pockets, worn waterpump, worn fan clutch, worn radiator, collapsing hose, etc.

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                • #9
                  Well I have Howell TBI so that is somewhat preset, I did find the timing off by a lot and fixed that. The water pump and radiator are low miles to brand new the hoses are fine. With the spark plugs are you talking about the heat range?

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                  • #10
                    stpid question but did you make sure to put the fan shoud back on after all the work?

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                    • #11
                      Just as a reference

                      I got back from a 1,000 mile trip in my '89 GW, I had the AC fixed (new compressor and R-134) just before the trip, and running 60-65 mph (3.31 axle) with the AC on in 97 degree outside air temp, my GW was running between the 220 line and the line below, if I drove around 70 mph, it got closer to the 220 line. When the air temp was around 90 the needle would sit about the line below 220. I have a OEM style 3 row raditor, the flow kooler water pump, the nicer 180 degree thermostat, a new t-chain, timing is set at 12 degree BTDC (I may back this off on the next long trip as I got some pinging climbing hills). I don't have the heavy duty fan clutch, just a normal new one from advanced auto. When I would pop the hood at fuel stops, the engine really did not seem all that hot, nothing more than normal. I may try a heavy duty fan clutch at some point, but for now I am happy with the temp.

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