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  • Flex Fan for the aluminum rad

    Just ordered the aluminum radiator and would like to install a flex fan along with it. (The current fan is working fine, but why not add a little more shine under the hood while I'm at it?).

    Looks like the recommended fan size is 17", but would you recommend Stainless, or aluminum? And there seems to be a 1", and a 2 1/4" spacer available, which would be the correct one with the aluminum radiator?

    (I've got a '76 Cherokee S with a 360, and A/C I'd like to get operating next spring). Would go with the electric fans, but dont like the noise, and hoping to not spend quite that much.

    The shroud has been missing since I bought the truck... Hoping to find one on an old wagoneer in the scrap yard soon if I need it... No problem yet.

    Thanks

  • #2
    Flex fans are usually a bad idea because at RPM's they flatten out and they make a TON of noise.. more than our electric fan does by far.

    If you are ever gonna wheel it, you will hate the flex fan.

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    • #3
      Ditto with Brent on this one. If you ever splash up into the engine compartment or cross deeper water, a flex fan will immediately go right into your radiator and carve out a piece for good measure. I love my electric on my Commando. I have it hooked to a temp sensor for normal automatic operation and have a manual override off switch on the dash for water crossings. I do have a large red light that is illuminated when I manually turn off the fan. This way, I am less likely to leave it off by mistake.

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      • #4
        I've seen the older style flex fans do exactly what your talking about (pull into the radiator because the water), but thought the newer type would be fine since they have steel supports nearly their full length. The older ones had rectangular aluminum paddles that were supposed to flatten out as the engine revved up, the newer ones go to a point on the end (more of a triangle shape), and hold their shape more throughout the rpm range.

        I'm just going to pull off the original fan and paint it to match the engine. I've had electrics in several trucks before, cant stand the whrrrr noise, or far worse, hearing them kick on and off all the time when driving at low speed and idling on and off for a while (most any off road driving other than a full out mud bog run).

        The engine in my truck has a fairly recent rebuild, is tuned pretty nicely, and combined with the slight whrr from the high amp alternator when you rev it(sounds like a gear drive) its music to my ears!!!

        NOTHING sounds better than any V8 running the way it should with a little lope to it!!! I could never bring myself to completely wreck that with a buzzing, whrrring noise. Knowing your truck is built right, running strong, and doing what the Jeep gods intended is most of the fun of off roading! "I wonder if I can make it threw that?" is as everyone knows a BIG part to!!! This shouldnt be interupted with a passenger asking. "Whats that noise? It keeps turning on and off."

        I know the better electrics arent defening, I've had them before. But nobody could ever say their even close to as quite as a mechanical fan, or sound anything remotely close to "good".

        Just wondering if anybody had installed a newer flex fan, and how its working.

        Thanks for the input! Sounds like you've got a pretty nice setup Fred. The switch is KEY to saving the electric fan in any deep stuff!! Helped a lot in making up my mind! Saved me from wasting some money too!
        Last edited by BigCheeseStick; 11-12-2008, 02:12 AM.

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        • #5
          Cool! I'm with you on the V-8 sound. I have to admit that the Spal fan I used is expensive and sounds like a turbine. I couldn't use the stock fan or I would have. I used a 5.3 vortec in the Commando and there was physically not enough space for anything but the Spal. Believe it or not, its several inches longer than an older Chevy 350. Man I love that fuel injection though! Makes me want to use that Edlebrock set up BJ's sells when the time comes for a rebuild. Smog might be tough though here in California.

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          • #6
            i had the newer style flex-a-lite fan on my j10 for a while. they are great IF you are only using your ig for street driving, once you get out on the trail, it will cause your problems. my j10 overheated on the trails badly with one. I took the fan off and installed a 16" electric fan and no longer have anything to worry about.

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            • #7
              one big thing that most folks don't think about it ANY time your motor overheats (for those with automatic transmission coolers that run through the radiator), you need to change the trans fluid. Overheating in the engine coolant will overheat the trans fluid and cause it to break down. Not related to the flexfan so much, but somewhat fits with this post

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              • #8
                that is true Ryan. Thats why I like to run a seperate cooler for the tranny. I actually mounted mine in the bed with an electric fan on it.

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                • #9
                  The new radiator came last night. I put it in today in about 20 minutes and would really like to compliment you guys on the quality!!! PERFECT fit, bolt holes lined right up, and every part of the new radiator clears other parts of the truck by 1/4" to 1/2" (better than the original that was about sitting on top the steering box). Looks a little closer to the factory fan, but thats probably an improvement. Got about 1/2" of room there.

                  While I was worried about the fit, I was WAY more worried about the condition it would show up in. The box was perfect!!! This is unheard of from any of the delivery services in this state. I've had packages show up from USPS looking like they were dragged behind the truck on a chain! Great job with the packaging too! And good call for using UPS (safest of the bunch).

                  Thanks for supplying a product that you should be proud you sold, and at a good price too.

                  One thing I'd ask for you to consider would be to add a few bucks to the cost, and put in a good Stant cap, and the barbed fittings for the trans hookup (took me three parts stores to find a cap that wasnt a no name brand from china looking like it was made of tin foil. I'm still looking for some brass fittings... Gonna try a hydraulics shop next week when I get a chance to work at it again).

                  Thanks again, cant wait to get the beast running again!

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                  • #10
                    Took 8 stores to find the fittings including Grainger (they didnt have them either), I was on my way home about to give up searching for the day and stopped at an OLD, mom and pop auto parts store just for the heck of it. We searched bins for half an hour and FOUND THE FITTINGS!

                    Heads up for others installing the radiator! The top fitting needs (HAS) to be a 3/8" X 1/4" barbed elbow (90 degree fitting), the bottom HAS to be a 3/8" to 1/4" straight barbed fitting, and to hook up to the factory hard lines without half a$%ing it like EVERYBODY kept telling me to at the stores, you need two 3/8" barbed compression fittings. Six feet of hose, four clamps, and zoom! Away you go!!! Nice professional looking job that'll last years without ever leaking.

                    The guy knew he had me over a barrel, so the fittings ended up costing me about $6 each!

                    PLEASE do everyone else a HUGE favor and throw in fittings along with the $6 Stant cap in with the radiator!!! Or make it a $20 or $30 install kit with some hose.
                    Last edited by BigCheeseStick; 11-21-2008, 08:30 AM.

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