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  • Transfer case valcuum diaphram

    I have a bad diaphram that will not hold vacuum or engage my emergency drive. I tested the diaphram with a handheld vacuum tester and two short peices of brand new vacuum tubes connecterd right at diaphram nipples and the diaphram slow leaks. I have cut a 3 x 5 inch hole in my floorboard to replace the diaphram. (saw that on another post) I have already ordered a new diaphram from ebay. 40 dollars ..

    Anyways, can anyoone offer a step by step or a little help on removing and replacing the diaphram?

  • #2
    well im going to tackle this myself this morning. I know there is an oring and 2 snap rings. I just was wanting to know

    * does the actuator diaphram come right out easy and go back in easy. monkey see monkey do?

    * should i look out for parts popping out that i might can lose, how do they go back in if percieved to be difficult

    * should i test vacuum on the new diaphram prior to putting it in or only holds vacuum when installed

    *ect ect


    • #3
      This page shows how to do it and what to watch out for:


      • #4
        ok i got the diaphram in and its much more work then anything I read here or elsewhere. Jubileejeeps has the best description of what your going to encounter. Thanks Brent

        So, the new diaphram is holding vacuum now but ONLY after i used wire ties on the brand new vacuum tubing.

        I cant get the truck emergency drive light to come on nor do I hear a click. I took the fluid out and put in new tc1 specific transfer case fluid. Tried again an nothing. Thought maybe I should go climb a hill an see what tires spin in the event my light does not work. Only the right front and back left spun when I tried climbing a wet steep hill. I then did figure 8s in reverse with the vacuum still holding an I still cant get the truck in emergency drive.

        Any ideas of a next step?


        • #5
          any ideas on a logical next step?

          I went back in an made sure the fork an stuff in there is well lubricated an can move. I might have to go manual shifter route if I cant get this working. It would be a case study to have on here if we can finalize tho.


          • #6
            next step would be to send Flint from Jubilee Jeeps an email through his site, as he is the foremost QT expert out there.


            • #7
              Hi, I don't get by here much. Got the emails. OK...

              When the new vacuum shifter was installed, did all these parts go back in?

              Since you have a way to see the Edrive shifter through the floor, if you take the inspection cover off and keep pressure on the retainer spring to keep the collar in place, you should be able to see the shift fork move back and forth when you use a hand pump on each side of the diaphragm.


              • #8
                Yes I made sure the ball, spring, an o ring an snap clips went back in. However, I am going go double check..... Will get back to this thread soon, raining hard here currently might be a day or two...

                Thanks, and that picture is very clear an blown up well...

                Curious, I know you have seen how others have welded a o ring or nut on the shafts an went away from the vacuum to manual shifting. Well, assuming I could put my hand on the diaphram while I was slowly moving, could one pull the diaphram aft and make the emergency drive work? Just curious


                • #9
                  When I refer to "slowly moving" i am under the impression that "emergency drive" works best or only works, while moving forward slowly in neutral.


                  • #10
                    The fork moves forward to engage Edrive. If the diaphragm collar is not locked, the whole shifter will slide back and forth instead of the fork. Yes, usually have to roll a little bit for Edrive to engage. If the Edrive switch is stuck, it will also prevent the shaft from moving forward enough for the shift collar to engage Edrive.


                    • #11
                      my shifter does not slide back and forth so the collar must be locked properly, however, I am going back in thru access hole, remove plate, and inspect with cover off while holding my finger over the spring you mention


                      • #12

                        All the parts look to be in correctly. I have a new issue now. When I drive the vehicle it now binds when I make a sharp turn. Like the front tires grab on the road when I turn an skip and grab. I went back to the wet slick hill i climb to see my spin marks and still dig holes only where the left front tire is an the back right tire.

                        Id like to clarify if I can. If I am in emergency drive, all four tires would leave a mark correct?


                        • #13
                          Ok I am being told now I am in emergency drive an thats why I am getting the skipping front tires. I guess my light does not work. I was thinking I would hear a click or something If i was shifted into emergency drive but I did not. I will now try an disengage emergency drive with vacuum on the other nipple thats on the back of the diaphram and then test drive. I will go back to that wet hill an climb it and see how many holes my jeep makes. I assume one tire hole since emergency drive dug a left front and a right back hole yesterday? I am being told that emergency drive does not engage all for tires unless one has lockers......


                          • #14
                            I have my answer to the emergency drive question in regards to what tires turn:

                            When emergency drive is 'Locked In', the front & rear axle get power equally from the engine, and at least ONE wheel on each end will be pulling directly connected to the engine.

                            So I was indeed in Emergency Drive


                            • #15
                              I wonder why the apply side of the diaphram holds vacuum but the release side does not?