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  • Rear Window Switch Replacement

    Since the rear window switch has been long discontinued, I thought I would make this a sticky:

    We made a kit using high quality parts to fix your rear window switch forever!

    http://www.bjsoffroad.com/Tailgate-S...991_p_500.html
    Last edited by Ryan; 09-06-2017, 08:43 AM.

  • #2
    Better Switch Choice

    I installed this switch before doing any research. I discovered that using this switch would render the dash switch in-operable because the contact operation is different. Eaton / Military Grade switches MS-27407-6 (ON)-ON-(ON) has the same contacts and operation as the OEM switch. I purchased this switch from Allied Electronics under the Allied part number 826-1522 and it cost $37.26. The Eaton part number is 8501K19. This switch is environmentally sealed and has screw terminals rather than spade lugs so it should last much longer than the OEM. It will mount in the same way you have illustrated in your link for the new switch.
    Last edited by bcagley; 03-13-2011, 01:27 AM.

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    • #3
      Question

      Hey I followed the instructions in this sticky and found the same thing, it works great but the front switch no longer works. So I ordered this eaton switch (MS-27407-6 (ON)-ON-(ON)) but I don't know how to wire it up to make it functiona. Does it wire up just like the instructions on the link above? I really didn't any lie the switch originally, just wired it up like the linked instruction says. I have the schematic for tailgate wiring (90 model gw) but I am not familiar with automotive wiring diagrams and can't make heads or tails of it. Can anyone help? Thanks

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      • #4
        I can answer this question now. Yes the new switch wires up exactly like the original instructions. And yes this allows the dash switch to function.

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        • #5
          The switch with my kit doesnt allow internal switch operation though I wired per instructions and it is the same item stated above...

          I only have brown, tan, and red wires to my switch.
          Last edited by jeepgirl; 05-30-2014, 06:46 AM.

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          • #6
            I have no safety switch connections either. if i connect #2 and #5 together, the switch works although extremely slowly and no internal switch function. Removing #2 and #5 restores internal switch with full power operation but rear switch doesnt work. If i remove the switch completely and simply use a jumper wire on my connecter, I can make the window go up/down but it moves very slowly. Beginning to wonder if wiring was changed when i had someone work on her at some point over the years.. It's very perplexing!
            Last edited by jeepgirl; 05-30-2014, 06:49 AM.

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            • #7
              UPDATE.. got the interior and rear switch working instead of one or the other. Since I have no safety switch I had bridge wiring between #1 and #2 / #5 and #6 on the switch. A little puzzler for ya though.. before I had the switch installed so I would know what did what.. I could connect my red to tan or brown to make the window go up and down but it was extremely slow. The interior switch rockets the windows up and down.. Now with both working it is the same deal.. interior=fast / rear=barely moves... what is the deal?!

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              • #8
                There has to be something incorrect with your wiring, or one of the connectors. The other possibility is that from the rear switch, maybe the shaft that comes out of the key cylinder isn't turning the switch far enough. If this is the case, there might not be full power going to the motor when using the rear switch.

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                • #9
                  i had inadvertently changed the guage of some of the connection wires on switch.. changed to 12 gauge and works better but still only a 1/3 of the speed. set up key cylinder so pushes switch to max.. think it is a power/ground/ resistance issue..

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